Rats in a chicken coop: how to get rid of them and rat-proof it (UK guide)
⚠️ Guidance only: this article is general information, not legal advice. Always follow UK law and site safety rules. Keep children, pets and livestock away from any control products and contaminated areas. If you’re unsure what’s lawful or safe on your site, stop and get competent help.
Rats in chicken coop situations nearly always start for the same reason: food and shelter are easy. It’s rarely “because you keep chickens”. It’s because chicken feed, water, bedding and quiet voids create a reliable routine that rats learn fast.
This guide covers what most people are really searching for: how to get rid of rats in a chicken coop, how to rat proof a chicken coop so it doesn’t repeat, and when it’s time to call a pest controller because DIY has become false economy.
Do chickens attract rats?
Do chickens attract rats? Not directly. What attracts rats is:
- Feed (especially spill)
- Water
- Safe harbourage (a quiet space under the coop, behind stored items, hedge lines, clutter)
That’s good news — because you can usually reduce pressure quickly by changing routines and tightening the setup.
Will rats kill chickens?
Will rats kill chickens? It can happen, especially to:
- chicks
- injured or weak birds
- very small birds
But the bigger day-to-day issue is usually feed theft, contamination risk, and repeat pressure. Either way, you don’t want rats living under or around a coop.
How to confirm rats (not mice) around a coop
Before you throw methods at the problem, confirm what you’re dealing with. Rats and mice behave differently, and the fixes are different.
Look for:
- Burrows and holes: under coops, slabs, along walls, under sheds, hedge lines
- Runs: repeated paths along fence lines and edges where they can travel unseen
- Droppings: larger droppings near feed sources, wall edges and entry points
- Gnawing: chewed feed sacks, plastic bins, timber edges, damaged corners
- Daytime sightings: often suggests higher pressure or disturbed harbourage
What to do first (the 24-hour reset that cuts pressure fast)
If you do nothing else, do this. It’s the fastest way to reduce attraction and stop feeding the problem.
- Remove feed overnight: don’t leave feeders or spill available all night
- Stop spill: clean daily; don’t let it build up under drinkers and feeders
- Store feed properly: rodent-resistant containers; tidy, sealed storage area
- Clear harbourage: move pallets, scrap, timber, long grass, clutter around the coop and run
- Disturb the comfort zone: if rats have settled under the coop, it needs to stop being a quiet, undisturbed “hotel”
These steps don’t “solve” an infestation on their own, but they reduce the refill rate, which makes every control method more effective.
Rat proof chicken coop: the fixes that prevent repeat problems
Rat proof chicken coop work is what stops you repeating the same battle every few months. Most repeat problems happen because the setup keeps offering:
- food
- shelter
- an undisturbed route
1) Remove the “under-coop void” problem
The space under a coop is prime rat real estate. Your aim is either to eliminate that void, or make it hard to access and unpleasant to use.
- Best option: a solid base (where practical) or a design that leaves no soft, hidden nesting zone
- Common practical option: raise the coop so it’s not a dark sheltered tunnel, and keep the area clear and visible so rats don’t feel safe using it
2) Proof the run edges and “dig-in” routes
Rats exploit soft ground and fence lines. If they can dig in easily, they will.
- Skirt approach: a robust mesh skirt laid out from the run perimeter (secured and covered) makes digging-in far less likely
- Boundary discipline: keep the run edge clear of clutter and long vegetation that hides activity and makes new burrows easy
3) Close the “easy access” points
Most access is boring: gaps, weak repairs, and easy-to-chew materials.
- Doors and latches: if it doesn’t shut tight, assume it’s an entry route
- Vents and openings: any mesh must be robust and properly fixed (not stapled-on “temporary”)
- Feed room and storage: proofing the coop is pointless if the feed store is an open buffet
How to get rid of rats in chicken coop: what actually works
The best outcomes come from combining prevention (food/access/harbourage) with targeted control. If you only “kill a few rats” but keep feeding the site drivers, you’re signing up for endless repeats.
Traps
Traps can work well when you can place them safely and consistently.
What makes traps succeed:
- placement at confirmed hotspots (runs, burrow exits, edges)
- consistent routine (not “set once and forget”)
- strict prevention of access by chickens, pets and non-target wildlife
If you can’t guarantee safe placement, don’t wing it.
Rodenticides (poison)
Poison is where people get into trouble. Rodenticides can be effective for hidden, entrenched activity, but they carry higher downside if used casually.
If rodenticides are used, they should be:
- deployed under tight control
- placed so chickens, pets and wildlife cannot access
- used exactly in line with the product label and official guidance
If you’re around chickens, pets, children or livestock, this is one of the clearest “get a professional involved” moments.
Shooting
On rural sites, targeted shooting is sometimes used to reduce visible pressure at specific hotspots, but it’s not a universal fix.
It must be:
- lawful (permission and legal context)
- safe for that specific site
- carried out competently with safe backstops and controlled area
It also doesn’t solve hidden infestations living under slabs, inside voids, or deep in harbourage.
When to call a pest controller (the no-nonsense triggers)
You’re usually better off calling a pest controller when any of these are true:
- Daytime rats around the coop
- Multiple burrows / established harbourage under or around the coop
- Repeat activity despite clean-up and “trying a few things”
- Contamination risk around feed storage or handling
- Legal/safety uncertainty about methods or products on your site
A professional approach is usually: survey routes and drivers, prioritise proofing, monitor properly, then apply control matched to the risk profile of the site. That’s how you get fewer repeats.
Quick checklist: rat-proofing a coop and run
- Feed removed overnight; spill controlled daily
- Feed stored in rodent-resistant containers
- Under-coop area not usable as a sheltered nesting void
- Run edges proofed against digging-in routes
- Gaps and weak repairs fixed with robust materials
- Harbourage cleared (pallets, scrap, long grass, clutter)
- Monitoring routine in place so you can measure improvement
FAQs: Rats in chicken coop
How do I get rid of rats in my chicken coop fast?
Start by removing night-time food access and stopping spill, then clear harbourage and confirm burrow locations. Fast results come from cutting attraction first, then applying targeted control safely at confirmed hotspots.
Do chickens attract rats?
Not directly. Rats are attracted to feed, water, spill and safe shelter. Tight feed discipline and proofing usually reduces pressure dramatically.
Will rats kill chickens?
They can, particularly chicks or weak birds, but the bigger ongoing issues are feed theft, contamination and repeat infestation.
What are the signs of rats around a chicken coop?
Burrow holes, runs along edges, larger droppings near feed and walls, gnawing on sacks and plastics, and sightings at dusk or even daytime when pressure is high.
How do I rat proof a chicken coop?
Remove easy food access, eliminate or control the under-coop void, proof run edges against digging-in, close gaps and weak repairs, and keep the perimeter clear of clutter and long vegetation.
Should I leave chicken feed out overnight?
No. Leaving feed out overnight is one of the quickest ways to support a rat problem. Remove feeders where practical, and treat spill control as non-negotiable.
Is rat poison safe around chickens?
Rodenticides can work but carry risk if used casually. Any use must follow label instructions and official guidance, and prevent access by chickens, pets and wildlife. If you’re unsure, get a professional involved.
Why do rats keep coming back even after I catch a few?
Because the site drivers haven’t changed. If food, access and harbourage remain, you can remove rats repeatedly and still lose. Proofing and feed discipline are what stop repeats.
When should I call a pest controller for rats in a chicken coop?
If you have daytime sightings, multiple burrows, contamination risk, repeat activity despite clean-up, or uncertainty around safe and lawful methods, it’s time to call a professional.
Additional resources
Official and reputable UK guidance for poultry/rodent control and safe rodenticide use: